its a sweet ride...prone or erect.
there is a different joy to sharing a wave with your mates compared to drawing your lines solo. while you may forgo complete freedom in turns, the stoke remains.
'tom, dane @ harry'
the muse and blabberings of a group of traditionalist surfers experiencing and experimenting with the design philosophies of the ancient hawaiians
Probably the most impressive form of ancient finless surfboard is the olo. The olo was the surfboard reserved for Hawaiian royalty, and to be able to ride one by all accounts must have taken extraordinary skill. Typically the deck and bottom curvature of the olo was similar and convex in nature with knifey rounded rails, and very heavy indeed.
These boards were designed for riding the large green unbroken waves on the far outer reefs of places like Waikiki.
Tom recreated an olo from Pawlonia to experience what surfing one would have been like and was incredibly challenged by it. He said the tasks of simply paddling the board and catching waves were substantial. The following pic is a fitting tribute to Toms skill as a surfer and craftman. His first wave on the olo.All hail the KING.
http://www.tomwegenersurfboards.com/